When I first started my journey of eating clean(er) someone asked me if I was going to start making bone broth, apparently having health benefits that I was not aware of. I have been in the culinary world for some time and there are definitely culinary terms I have forgotten over the years but I assure you ‘bone broth’ was not a term I used in professional kitchens. I was confused. I asked for an explanation; ‘you know, when you simmer bones and vegetables slowly, that’s a bone broth’.
Ah. Yes! But in my world that is called a stock or a reduction. So, I guess the answer is yes. I can indeed make a BONE BROTH.
Stocks are an integral ingredient in professional kitchens adding huge amounts of flavour to meat, fish, vegetable and pasta dishes. Every day you can see and smell stocks reducing on stovetops all around the world.
In my cooking classes, I deglaze pans and make soups and sauces with water, not stock. My reason is simple; I want everyone to leave my home both inspired and knowing that both food and the flavour can be easily reproduced at home. Having stock on hand is a bonus.
Not all of us have to time make stock but when you can make the time…
IT IS WORTH IT!
So, what is the difference between a stock and Demi Glace or a ‘bone broth’? The amount of time you allow it to reduce. When you reduce a stock the flavours are concentrated and enhanced and the liquid becomes thicker. Though, not all stocks start with the same ingredients; great quality bones and/or vegetables.
It is like the old adage about wine; ‘if you wouldn’t drink it, don’t cook with it’. Well, if you wouldn’t eat the vegetable or the bones don’t smell fresh, your finished product will be compromised.
In short, use fresh bones and produce.
Mirepoix
There are a few vegetables you are likely to find in a professional kitchen; carrots, onions, celery and leeks are known in French cuisine as ‘mirepoix’. Mirepoix are the basic aromatic vegetables used in soups, stocks, chowders, braises and stews. In Cajun and creole cooking they use what is called the ‘holy trinity’; a mixture of green bell peppers, onions and celery.
I cut vegetables according to their cooking time; the longer the cooking time, the larger I cut the vegetables. Typically a fish, vegetable or ‘blonde’ stock will cook for less time than a brown stock. To create a brown stock, vegetables should be roasted before simmering.
Bones
Chicken, fish, beef, veal and lamb bones all create very different, amazing and flavourful stocks.
I’m not fussy when choosing the type of meat or fish bones for stock. Quite frankly, my decisions are based on what is available from my fishmonger or butcher or what I cook for me and my family. Often I will roast or smoke a whole chicken, leg of lamb or bone-in rib roast and carve the meat from the bones. I reserve those bones to make stock immediately or wrap well and store in the freezer to make stock at a later time.
I have built great relationships with my fishmongers and butchers so when they have a surplus of bones they know to call me first.
I am more selective when choosing fish bones. I prefer mild, white fish like halibut and flounder. I avoid bones from oily fish like salmon and black cod.
Blondes and…
I have two classifications for stock; blonde (white) and dark (brown) stocks. What differentiates the two is how you prepare the raw ingredients.
A blonde stock is more mild and neutral in flavour and created by simmering raw bones with mirepoix vegetables and other aromatic herbs and spices.
Roasting bones and mirepoix, often with the addition of tomato product, red wine and aromatic herbs and spices, create an incredibly flavourful, deep rich ‘dark’ stock. The tomato product and wine are optional.
The longer stock is reduced, the more concentrated the flavours become.
No matter your preference, blondes or brown, stock will help you to create incredible, flavourful (restaurant quality) food for you and your family.
Stock can be created when you have time. They can be cooled and frozen in ice cube trays. Once the stock is frozen remove from the trays and store in an air-tight container to be enjoyed at your convenience.
Enjoy!
– Chef jw
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